Note: only use for patching up small spots and hairline cracks.

- MEGAPOXY Epoxy filler part A and part B

- SIKADUR – 31, (made by Sika) 2-component solvent free epoxy resin containing filler, part A and part B.

- FERROPRE 2-component epoxy filler, part A and part B. (made by Loctite)

- AQUA KNEAD IT, epoxy filler, (made by Selleys)

Recommanded one component concrete patching cement 

- QUICKCRETE (made by Selleys)

• pH: No higher than 7.8; No lower than 7.2
• Calcium (water hardness): No higher than 200 ppm; No lower than 100 ppm
• Calcium (water hardness) for painted pools: No lower than 175 ppm
• Total Alkalinity: No higher than 200 ppm; No lower than 100 ppm
• Chlorine Level: No higher than 5 ppm; No lower than 1 ppm
• Salt Level: 4000 ppm. (Note: Salt levels should be turned down during winter or when bathing levels are low.
• Stabilizer Level: No higher than 50 ppm. No lower than 30 ppm.

Please consult your pool maintenance professional for further advice.

(Issue Date: May, 2005. Macleod Paints Pty Ltd)

Choosing the paint

• SwiftVulc chlorinated Rubber should be used if pool has a lot of movement as it is a softer more flexible coating than the epoxy. Adhesion can be difficult when using this system. Do not use on damp surfaces. Application – 2 full bodied coats of SwiftVulc CR. May be thinned upto 10% to aid application. Use only SVX thinners.
• SwiftEpoxy HR has good adhesion on less than perfect substrates and is a better choice when substrate dampness is an issue. However, if there is significant movement in the pool the epoxy will crack. Application – maybe applied as a one coat system at a spreadrate of approx. 6 sq mts per litre or as a two coat system at a spreadrate of approx. 8 sq mts per litre.

General Preparation

• Degrease – use a stiff bristle broom and give the pool a good scrub with DC 101 degreaser or sugar soap. Rinse off.
• Acid wash – to remove chemical build-up. For fibreglass use 10:1 (10 parts water to 1 part Hydrochloric acid). Always add acid to water to avoid splash back. Mix in plastic watering can fitted with rose. Do not scrub in to surface. Do not allow to dry on surface. Allow to effervesce for approximately 1 minute and then rinse. Work in sections.
• Water blast – thoroughly wash/flush pool with water 1500psi minimum to remove all debris.
• Abrade removing all gloss and smoothness – otherwise delamination may occur. Wash clean.
• Allow the pool to dry thoroughly.

These notes are a supplement to our more detailed explanation of procedures. Please contact us or your supplier before commencing. (7/21 Malvern Street, Bayswater, Vic 3153. Telephone: 03 9729 7100 Facsimile: 03 9729 7400)

The original mix

• The combination of sand, cement and aggregate that we tend to think of as a cement plaster or render was generally modified in a couple of key ways when an exposed render finish was applied.

Colour

• Most of these finishes were a pale colour. The whiteness of the render could be achieved in a couple of ways:
• A very good quality white cement could be used. This was the most durable and expensive option.
• A significant quantity of titanium dioxide could be added to the mix. This was another good option. The colour might eventually fade a bit but the titanium wouldn’t contribute any negative qualities.
• Calcium carbonate. Powdered chalk contributed whiteness, but as the render became more porous over time, would soften and provide a good environment for algae.

Resins and other additives

Often, the render was modified with waterproofing resins, flex agents, or products to make the render harder or smoother. A very good quality hard cement render should require very little in the way of modification. Often a small amount of Nonporite or similar was all that was required. Other additives, however were often used.

• Acrylic resins. These were liquids, or more recently powders which increased the waterproofing characteristics of the mix.
• Vinyl resins. A large variety of vinyl resins were used. Including cross-linkable PVAs, some of these resins made the renders very “tight” and hard to wet. While this helped during the initial lifespan of the render, they make it very hard to repaint these surfaces when the look of the pool starts to degrade.
• Silicone or siloxane resins. Only generally a problem when very new.
• Fibrous additives. Some cement render mixes had fibres added, to strengthen the mix. For a period of time, this included asbestos. It is very important that care be taken with dust if pool render surfaces are being ground or drilled.

When the time comes to repair and paint a coloured render surface, care must be taken In the following areas

• Damage and drumminess. If a render begins to degrade (particularly one rich in chalk), hollow spaces can develop between the render and the concrete shell. Any areas of damage of softness should be cut out and repaired. A standard sand a cement mix is the most effective way to patch these areas.
• The water repellent nature of certain resins. If the render surface is very “tight” (non porous) and if water tends to pour over the surface, rather than soaking into the render, it may be difficult to get penetration with a paint. It may be that additional acid washing or other preparation needs to be done.

If there are any reasons to believe that your pool requires you to obtain specific advice, please call Macleod Paints Pty Ltd   directly before beginning your repainting.

Q. Your coatings are solvent-based. Can’t you make a more environmental-friendly waterbased product?

A. We’d like to.
Currently, water-based coatings for swimming pools are not as durable as the solvent-based chlorinated rubber or high solids epoxies we make. The gains made would be more than taken back by the need to empty the pool and repaint more often. We are working on it.

Q. Are the coatings safe for fish, for plants, for people?

A. Yes. Once dry and cured, the coatings are inert and do not affect the chemical balance of the pool or pond, or release toxins or bioactive compounds into the water.

Q. What about the emptying and refilling of the pools when refurbishing? Should Australians even have swimming pools in such a dry continent?

A. It’s a good question. We’d like you, as pool owners, to be as careful of your water use as possible.
If you have an average backyard pool and assuming you achieve a minimum of five years of use between repainting, as recommended by Standards Australia, your pool will use about ten thousand litres of water per year, averaged over that time. A paint that lasts longer will decrease that average.
The average Victorian household uses about 240,000 litres of water per year. Equivalent to emptying and refilling your pool nearly five times, according to savewater.com.au. We should all try to use the water we’ve got wisely, and to reduce the water we waste.

Q. What can I do, then?

A. When you repaint or refurbish your pool, go through the following steps.
Contact your local water company to find out if you need to apply for permission to refill your pool after painting. Your local water company will also have some other good tips about saving water, and may have information on rebates you may be entitled to if you do put in some water saving devices or systems in your home.

Contact your local volunteer fire association. (Here in Victoria it’s the CFA.) Some fire organisations will drain your pool for free and put the water to good use, rather than just put it down the drain. If they don’t need it, a tree watering service may want it once the chlorine levels drop low enough. As a side note, if you’re in an area subject to bushfire, ask your local volunteer fire association about putting up a Static Water Supply sign on your property. They’ll appreciate knowing where to pick up some water in the event of a fire.

While you’ve got the pool emptied, fix any leaks in the surface or the plumbing.

Prepare and paint your pool carefully. Shortcuts and impatience will only decrease the number of years of good life you get out of it before repainting.

Consider a pool cover. It will reduce loss of water due to evaporation. So will providing some cover with shade cloth or trees.

If you can partially fill your pool with rainwater, harvested by your roof and guttering, do so. At the very least, you may be able to avoid “topping up” with tap water to replace losses from backwashing or evaporation. If you paint at the end of the season rather than the beginning, you may be able to completely fill your pool using rainwater. A recent study indicates roof runoff can be up to 120,000 litres of water annually per house. Capturing only half of this would allow the pool to be completely filled without using drinking water supplies.

Ponds and water features
Whether you use our product to build a water feature or pond or not, a pond or water feature can add more than just trendiness and resale value for your home. If you design it well, it can support native wildlife. But only if you can keep it healthy and clean without resorting to bactericidal chemicals.

While we don’t support trying to run your swimming pool without an appropriate chemical regime, you can set up a pond without one. If you can set up a system allowing fish, plants, or even frogs to live in it, you’ll be doing your environment, and probably your garden, an enormous favour.

1. To neutralize the lime and active cement (laitance) concrete of new concrete.
2. To open the cement surface to promote penetration and adhesion of coatings.
3. To remove build-up of (alkaline) chemicals and mineral salts on surfaces.

The dilution ratios mentioned in most of our preparation and application sheets are based on commonly available concentrations of approximately 33%. “Spirits of Salts” is an indication of a concentration between 32% and 36%. In some areas, muriatic acid may be  sold. This is a 25% concentration. Some adjustment to dilution ratios may be necessary; if
you are using muriatic acid.

Handling Acid

Note:  This document is not, nor is it a substitute for, a Material Safety Data Sheet for  hydrochloric acid. It may be advisable or required for you to obtain an MSDS for  hydrochloric acid. This document merely discusses the use of acid as it relates to the preparation of swimming pools. For the purpose of the remainder of this document, hydrochloric acid will be referred to as “acid”. This is not an indication that the warnings or instructions on hydrochloric acid will be relevant to the handling and use of any other acids.

1. Acid is corrosive and a strong oxidizing agent. It can cause chemical burns to the skin and can damage the eyes. Wear protective goggles and gloves and beware of splashes. If on your skin or in your eyes, wash immediately with copious quantities of water and seek medical advice if irritation or pain persists. Acid-resistant aprons or overalls should be considered.
2. When diluting acid, ALWAYS add acid to water. Take care in mixing. Add acid slowly and smoothly, taking care not to splash. Stir gently. The solution may warm slightly
3. We recommend that you mark the container you are using to dilute the acid so that it cannot be mistaken for pure water or some other liquid. KEEP THE CONTAINER WELL AWAY FROM CHILDREN. This container should be well rinsed before it is used for any other purpose.

Neutralize used or left-over acid before disposal. Acid can be neutralized by using sodium bicarbonate or other alkaline material such as as cement or marble chips. Please consider your local council rules and sewage regulations regarding disposal.

Application of Acid

1. Apply recommended dilution of acid directly to dry concrete using a plastic watering can equipped with a rose. You may spread the acid using a broom or brush, to ensure all areas have been exposed to fresh acid, but do not scrub the acid into the surface.
2. Work in sections, no more than two or three metres wide, working from the bottom of the wall upward, to ensure all areas have been exposed to fresh, unreacted acid.
3. The acid should effervesce and will likely turn a yellow colour. The acid may be left on the surface for up to 5 minutes, so long as the acid solution does not dry on the surface. If the acid does not effervesce on a bare render surface, it may mean:
   • The acid is spent; try applying fresh acid.
   • The surface has a film over it, or some other protective compound, like a PVA curing compound; try increasing the concentration of the acid.
   • The concrete is still contaminated with oil or grease; you may need to carry out a repeat degreasing of the surface.
4. When the reaction has stopped, wash the surface down thoroughly with ample fresh water. A brush of the surface with a clean broom may be helpful at this time to assist in rinsing. DO NOT ALLOW THE ACID SOLUTION TO DRY ON THE SURFACE
5. Having completed the acid/rinse cycle it is now important to ensure the complete removal of ALL solubles by high pressure waterblasting (using a machine capable of producing 3000 p.s.i.). Allow the surface to dry out and then sweep or vacuum to remove all loose sand, dust or other particles.

General Notes

Having completed your acid rinse, inspect the surface to ensure a uniform sandpaper feel  (if bare render). Smooth patches may indicate fats, grease, or surface treatments which require further attention.  Use only fresh water. DO NOT use brackish or bore water.  Allow a minimum of three (3) days at 25° C, 50% relative humidity prior to painting.

• Your pool surface may not have a coating at all. If the surface is a coloured render, you can treat it like an unpainted cement render pool.
• A fibreglass pool will require a bit of thinking. It’s best to contact us directly for more specific advice.

If you are unsure about your particular situation please contact Macleod Paints.

• Notes on Exposed Render Finishes
• Notes on Fibreglass

Before and after painting with Macleod's Swiftvulc Chlorinated Rubber.

• Product Data Sheet
• Checklist
• SwiftVulc_MSDS_FEB_2010
• RETARDER_THINNER_MSDS_FEB_2010
• Swiftvulc Colour Samples

Before and after painting with Macleod's SwiftEpoxy Highbuild Pacific Blue

• Product Data Sheet
• Checklist
• SEHB_Part_A_MSDS_FEB_2010
• SEHB_Part_B_MSDS_FEB_2010
• SwiftEpoxy Highbuild Colour Samples

• Product Data Sheet
• Epoxy Primer A-MSDS
• Epoxy Primer B-MSDS